Cleansing is probably the most neglected step in skincare, simply because beginners usually tend to apply the most force. It’s common to feel that your face is dirty, oily, or covered in sunscreen and/or makeup around your nose and chin. You just want to get to scrubbing, fast. However, in cosmetology fundamentals, gentle does not mean weak. It simply means controlled, which results in a thorough removal of debris and oils while leaving the skin feeling comfortable, calm, and nourished.
The skin barrier is the topmost layer, which provides the skin with protection and hydration. It prevents infection and keeps harmful bacteria away. If cleansers and/or water are too hot, or if the skin is scrubbed, the skin barrier is weakened, causing irritation, inflammation, dryness, or dehydration. The skin will then feel dry, hot, uncomfortable, tight, or squeaky. You may mistakenly think this is clean, but it’s actually stripped, which means the product, water temperature, pressure, or time will need to be changed. Clean skin should feel good.
Before picking the best cleanser for your needs, get started from the preparation. You wash your hands, prepare the towel, put the hair back with a fresh headband, and clear off the surface you’re working on. If you plan to use cotton pads, spatulas, or a mixing bowl, have them ready and clean, too, before you touch your face. This order makes you not feel rushed and connects the importance of the procedure to skincare.
Use lukewarm water and a bit of mild cleanser. Using light fingertips and fingers, apply the cleanser instead of pressing your skin on the hand. Around the nose, chin, and hairline, you can slow move in little circles to gently loosen build up. Around the eyes and cheeks, you shouldn’t use more force than you need. If your cleanser is foaming, more foam does not necessarily mean it’s better, and if it is creamy or gel-based, you can spend a moment with the texture sliding instead of adding product immediately.
An easy practice to keep track of your technique is to cleanse one evening, while focusing on how hard or softly you’re pressing on your face. Before you rinse it off, pay attention to whether you slide or drag your fingertips. After you rinse, you dry it off with a fresh towel instead of rubbing. Wait for a few minutes, then moisturize and check your face in the mirror. Does it look like, feel like it’s good, uncomfortable, slippery, hot, or dry in parts? You can write down a skin note with the name of the cleanser, texture, water temperature, and the condition after you dried it off.
What you wear during the day will affect your choice of cleansing. During the day, you wear lighter cleansers, and at night, you use a bit more to remove the sunscreen and makeup. This does not mean that you must scrub your face hard. You can take your time, use more products, and check if you need to add the next step while your skin is hydrated and moisturized. You should skip acids and any active product while your skin is irritated.
The most obvious way you improve your technique is when you look at your skin after you finish cleaning and see that it’s calmer, the towel doesn’t tug anymore, and you want to keep doing your routine. When your cleaning is softer, thorough, and orderly, your next skin steps will have a better foundation.